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Escaping the grey at one of Iceland’s most storied greenhouses

It's one of the gloomiest days this December — just past noon, yet outside, it is as dark as if it were eight in the evening. It won't get any brighter today. Rain pours down on the highway, making the road nearly invisible, while gusts of wind make the car sway as we hurtle away from the capital. There will be many more days like this, but in Iceland, you learn to adapt to the weather.

Despite the darkness of the Icelandic afternoon, I'm craving a splash of color. While many Icelanders I know are hibernating in the warmth of Tenerife during this period, I use my press pass to find the closest version of that near Reykjavík. Today, I'm at the greenhouses of the Horticultural School in Reykir. The school is part of the Agricultural University of Iceland and has recently made headlines for cultivating and harvesting Iceland's first cacao fruit — singular. But if you look outside the window, you won't underestimate such an achievement.

Greenhouse manager Elías Óskarsson meets me at the door, slightly surprised by my interest. He welcomes me and Art Bicnick, who can't hide his dissatisfaction with the limited daylight, into the greenhouse. Rows of cherry tomatoes in yellow, red, and various shades of green greet us, making me feel like a kid in a candy store — an admittedly healthy one. Baby aubergines are nestled next to rows of robust bell peppers and vibrant green cucumbers. Planted apart from the other crops, the Icelandic ghost peppers wait for their time to be harvested. The contrast with the dreary weather outside is stark. And don't even get me started on the smell.

Read more at grapevine.is

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